Mouton Rothschild 2005

The 2005 Mouton Rothschild will have to take a back seat to the prodigious 2006, but administrator Philippe Dalhuin deserves considerable credit for pushing Mouton to higher quality levels over recent years. A blend of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon and the rest mostly Merlot, the dark purple-hued 2005 exhibits a restrained but promising nose of cedar, tobacco leaf, creme de cassis, and toasty oak. Full-bodied, tannic, and extremely backward, with the vintage’s tell-tale acidity, it appears to be even more closed in the bottle than it was from barrel. It does possess a long finish and multilayered mouthfeel. This is an undeniably outstanding, yet restrained, shy wine for a Mouton Rothschild. Anticipated maturity: 2018-2040+

A superb Mouton, the 2005 is composed of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14% Merlot, and a dollop of Cabernet Franc. Under the new administrator, Philippe Dalhuin, the strictest selection of any recent vintage was instituted (64% of the production was used), and the 2005's 13.5% natural alcohol is one of the highest ever achieved at this estate. While not as good as the 1986 or 1982, the 2005 is a brilliant wine offering a classic inky/blue/purple color along with notions of creme de cassis, licorice, and sweet oak. Full-bodied, powerful, and exceptionally pure with good underlying acidity as well as a boatload of tannin, it will approach full maturity between 2015-2020, and should keep for 40 years.

The 2005 Mouton-Rothschild (a blend of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14% Merlot, and 1% Cabernet Franc) tips the scales at 13.2% alcohol, one of the highest percentages ever achieved at this estate. It does not possess the power or awesome depth of the 1986 or 1982, but it may represent a modern-day clone of the 1955. A tannic, backward, concentrated, powerful Mouton built for the ages, it will require 10-15 years to reach its full potential. An inky/blue/purple color is accompanied by classic notes of creme de cassis and smoke, but no trace of new oak. That in itself is a good indication of how rich and concentrated this wine must be to have absorbed all its oak at this stage of its evolution. One might also term it 1996-like in style given its fresh acidity and bright personality. Medium to full-bodied, impeccably elegant, powerful yet subtle and reticent at present, it will be extremely long-lived. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2050+

Lots of currants, berries and minerals and light toasted oak on the nose. Full-bodied and very refined, with lots of silky tannins and a long finish. Elegant and fine. Very pretty. But should be up with the rest of the first-growths. Tasted twice, with consistent notes.

Quite a bit of development at the rim. More evolved aromatically than most. Fleshy and sweet with very nice perfume. Pretty and well balanced. Not a blockbuster - the tannins in particular are quite fine. A little lighter than most

13.1 per cent alcohol compared with the more usual 12.3-12.8 per cent. Extremely deep crimson. Blackish tinge. Very dense and an interesting edge to it but, unusually, intensely sweet for a Pauillac first growth. Even hints of tar and game. Not as dense as some. Very raw at the moment - lots and lots fruit. The tannins are much less marked than on most - perhaps because the fruit is so ripe. Silky texture - but the overriding impression is one of sweetness. Bigger than the 2004 served immediately after but Mouton 2004 looks awfully good, if quite forward, now. Just 64 per cent of the crop went into the grand vin, so this is the smallest production of the grand vin for 25 years (not counting 1991 and 1977 which suffered such extreme weather conditions). Drink 2018-32

With neighbours Lafite and Latour on absolutely top form in recent vintages, Mouton has perhaps been overlooked a little. The 2000 and 2001 were maybe a little disappointing but the recently tasted 2002 showed extremely well, winning a blind flight of First Growths. A new winemaker (from Branaire) has now been installed and there is no doubt that when Mouton gets it right (as in 1982) the results can be sensational. In 2005 only 60% of production will be used for the grand vin - 30% less wine than in even 2003 and one of the smallest productions ever with very strict selection of the best vats only. 86% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14% Merlot, 1% Cabernet Franc. There is a lovely, spicy oak nose (100% new oak-medium toast). Very Mouton in style, with hints of aniseed, leather, cassis and cedar. On the palate it is creamy, complex and polished with fine blackberry fruit and a structured tannic backbone. Hervé Berland says it is better than the 2000 and reminds him more of the 1982. Not a blockbuster but this is real Mouton Rothschild. ONE OF THE WINES OF THE VINTAGE.

Monster nose. Black, powerful and ultra-serious. Senstational. A touch of exotic coconut, then WOW! Stacked with dense, ripe fruit. Perfect. Drink from 2020. Awarded 5 stars.

Black-red colour, exotic spicy aromas, black chocolate and coffee bean, explosive fruit, lush and very seductive but packs power as well, very sophisticated and exciting wine, classic Mouton. Drink 2015-45.

Full ruby-red. Explosive, superripe aromas of black raspberry, currant, graphite and tobacco leaf. Outsized, opulent and generous; this big boy saturates the entire mouth. There's an almost exotic character to the plum and cedar flavors. Spreads out impressively on the back end, coating the palate with ripe tannins. The 2006 is at once finer and more powerful, with more noble tannins, but this is more opulent.