San Leonardo, Tenuta San Leonardo 1997

I loved the 1997 San Leonardo. Made in a decidedly riper style, its generous, opulent fruit, rich texture and inner sweetness offered a nice balance to its herbal flavors. At ten years of age, its color intensity and vibrancy were surprisingly primary.

Dark color red. Aromas of currant, fresh herbs and raisin follow through to a full body, with big velvety tannins and lots of prune, spices and rosemary. Just starting to come around.--1997 Italian blind retrospective. Best after 2008. 7,450 cases made.

The 1997 San Leonardo comes from a landmark vintage that was characterized by warm temperatures and very little rainfall. In fact, 1997, 1995 and 1990 are similar in terms of the general lack of rain. Of course, that dryness helped to contribute to greater concentration and intensity of fruit. This is a powerful and gorgeous expression that bursts open with dark fruit aromas, spice, leather, cola, tar, licorice, wet earth, porcino mushroom and grilled herbs. Of particular beauty are the delicate floral tones of violet and rose that linger softly in the background. The wine is full and generous with excellent tannin management. There are no sharp edges here. Instead, the wine is round and soft on the palate. This is a true standout that will stand the test of time. It should be decanted up to three hours before serving.

Maturing ruby. Smells more evolved than the super-vital 1996. Hedonistic and flattering on the nose, then the acidity is starting to poke through the fruit on the palate. Really quite evolved with a little dryness and heat on the finish.

Black ruby in color, intense aromas of blackberries, licorice, red berries and green tobacco, this is a full-bodied red with loads of silky tannins and a long, long aftertaste of tobacco, sage and berry. A huge core of fruit in this wine. Needs time. An Italian interpretation of great Bordeaux from bygone days. Best after 2006. 7,450 cases made.