Volnay Clos des Ducs, Domaine Marquis d'Angerville 1999

This stunning Ducster remains almost entirely primary at present though I sense that the nose will begin to turn toward the secondary in the next year or two. There is excellent richness and plenty of supporting structure and minerality to the full-bodied flavors yet the usual precision and focus are present in spades on the mouth coating, serious and still moderately austere finish that delivers explosive length. This is going to be an extremely long-lived wine and while I suspect that it should be approachable and enjoyable around 2017 or so, I doubt that it will be fully ready for at least another 10 to 12 years from now. Irrespective of how long it ultimately requires, the 1999 Ducster is going to be one very special wine when it finally gets there.

Quite ripe with more black fruit than usual as well as bigger and richer flavors than is typical. However the '99 manages to preserve the hallmark purity, detail and minerality plus it delivers the same superb length as the Taillepieds. Stunningly complex and impeccably balanced, this should age for a long time. A truly great Clos des Ducs.