Vosne Romanée Malconsorts, Domaine Sylvain Cathiard 1999

(with thanks to Ted Kalota). Though there are some mature notes in evidence, the expressive nose is still relatively primary with wonderfully spicy yet subtle aromas of black fruit, hoisin and soy that give way to rich, seductive flavors that are supported by rounded and ripe tannins, all wrapped in a gorgeously complex and highly persistent finish. While this could certainly be enjoyed now, for my taste I would suggest continuing to hold for a few more years. Either way, this is a very special Malconsorts that should continue to impress for many years to come. In a word, terrific.

Malconsorts is one of the most underrated among the premiers crus of Vosne-Romanée though ironically enough, it is in actuality one of the very best of all in a village where almost every vineyard is especially gifted. So why does the vineyard have such a lousy reputation? Simply stated, because Malconsorts has a number of under performing owners, few of who make the most of this wonderful terroir. Happily, there are a few who do make first class examples and Domaine Cathiard is one of them. This '99 offers wonderfully spicy yet subtle aromas of black fruit, hoisin and soy that give way to rich, seductive flavors and prominent but ripe tannins. As sexy as the wine is at the moment, what really sets this apart from the merely very good is the tremendous depth and superb length. To be sure, this is in a somewhat more reserved style than many '99s are currently displaying and it is certainly less forward yet it should prove to be an outstanding cellar candidate because of its exceptional balance. A really lovely, understated Malconsorts that fulfils all of the promise I saw from barrel last november.