| Region | |
|---|---|
| Subregion | Italy > Piedmont > Barbaresco |
| Colour | Red |
| Type | Still |
Terrific aromas of wild berries, plums, flowers and fresh herbs. Full-bodied and very chewy, yet refined and very reserved. Already tight and asleep, but it will reward enormously those who are patient. Built for aging. The best Sori San Lorenzo since the extraordinary 1989. Best after 2007. 800 cases made.
The 1989 Sori San Lorenzo is a monument to the Nebbiolo grape, as well as to Barbaresco. It is one of the most concentrated wines I have tasted from this vineyard. There is a sweetness and unctuosity to the fruit that I did not detect in either the great 1985 or 1982. Still tannic, backward, and unevolved, this huge, rich, spice, tobacco, black-cherry-scented wine is massive on the palate. It should be at its best between 1998-2015. It is a remarkable winemaking effort!
Admirers of great wine will no doubt be debating the merits of Gaja's 1989s and 1990s for the next two or three decades. Both are spectacular vintages. When I tasted them side by side in March, the 1990s possessed a slight edge in terms of concentration and power. That does not mean they will ultimately turn out better, but they are fabulously impressive wines of unprecedented complexity, stature, and richness. For all his success, the admirable Angelo Gaja remains fanatically committed to excellence, and because of that he is Piedmont's reference point, as well as an inspiration to many of the young growers just beginning to estate bottle their wines.
At this stage, the 1997s look to be the finest wines Gaja has ever made. My enthusiasm is obviously due in part to the stylistic preference I have for more opulently textured wines with lower acidity and thus a broader window of drinkability. The full-bodied 1997 Barbaresco Sori San Lorenzo exhibits an intense nose of Asian spices, smoked meats, and black cherry liqueur. Low in acidity, fat, and plush, with unbelievable richness and glycerin as well as surprising forwardness, this large-scaled, satiny-textured Barbaresco will be drinkable upon release and last for two decades.
