Margaux 2004

The supple-textured 2004 Chateau Margaux is reminiscent of the 2001 or 1999. It exhibits a superb blue/purple color to the rim as well as sweet aromas of flowers, blueberries, creme de cassis, licorice, and smoke, superb fruit intensity, medium body, classic elegance, and silky, sweet tannin in the long finish. This beauty can be drunk now or cellared for two decades or more.

The 2004 Chateau Margaux, which has put on weight since I tasted it a year ago, is a superb example of why in certain cool, late ripening vintages, the en primeur tastings are easily 4-6 weeks too soon. At the January, 2006 tasting, the wine exhibited a gorgeous nose of licorice, white flowers, black currant liqueur, and subtle new oak. This aromatic, medium to full-bodied, superbly concentrated Margaux reminds me of a lighter version of the 1996. Precise, extremely well-delineated, beautifully pure, and, as the French would say, tres Margaux, it should be at its apogee between 2009-2028.

The 2004 is a streamlined, graceful example of Chateau Margaux with a deep plum/ruby/purple color and attractive black currant fruit intermixed with notions of white flowers, oak, and cherries. Rigidly constructed, with a lovely, medium-bodied texture, and tremendous purity, it will undoubtedly close down and need some time in the bottle. This beauty should be at its finest between 2010-2025.

Tasted at the Margaret River Cabernet tutorial. A deep black/garnet colour. The nose has stupendous definition and clarity, with that ethereal sense of controlled power and intensity, scents of dark cherry, pencils shavings and cedar all with wonderful definition and focus. The palate is medium-bodied, superb acidity, quite austere with cedar and tobacco, fine tannins, quite sharp and a little earthy on the finish. This is just a baby but should be considered a great success for the vintage. Drink 2012-2030. Tasted November 2009.

Subtle and complex aromas of crushed raspberry, milk chocolate and cigar box. Full-bodied, silky and refined, with layers of fruit and seductive tannins. Very long. A Margaux with finesse and reserve. Best after 2011.

Muscular and powerful. Superlong. Gorgeous aromas of blackberries, minerals and currants. Full-bodied and solid, with muscular tannins and a long, long finish. This is really balanced and refined. Gorgeous. Paul Pontallier, the technical director, says that it reminds him of the 1996, but may be even better; a blend of 1995 and 1996. Is he right? Maybe. Very close to 95-100

Very deep crimson. Very concentrated, very fine nose, very Margaux. Fresh, lively, dancing yet dense with lovely lift. Lightly mineral, bone dry finish. Very solid and very long term.... This was the only 2004 sample I actually ran out of because I was so keen to taste it. Wonderfully complete.

Since 1978 Margaux has probably been the most consistent of all the First Growths under the assured direction of Paul Pontallier. Always impressive whilst remaining fine and elegant. This year it is made from 78% Cabernet Sauvignon, 18% Merlot, 4% Petit Verdot. Only 41% of the crop was used for the Grand Vin. Lovely and delicate with real Margaux class. Fine, pure and silky textured. Doesn’t seem to have great density but M. Pontallier insists that it has. He adds "the precise sound of Margaux music, it vibrates in all the right places - a great vintage, the most classic ever." Very much an iron fist in a velvet glove, this is clearly a very fine Chateau Margaux that has been beautifully made.

A return to classicism after a year of exotic adventure. While accepting the opulence of the 2003 Margaux, Paul Pontallier said he felt this 2004 is closer to where the château should be, with more of a cultural vicinity than 2003. It has an aristocratic, Cabernet Sauvignon-dominated nose. On the palate, it's fresh and elegant with silky tannins, great depth and harmonious length. There's a lovely richness behind an austere, classical façade. Quietly majestic. 2013-2035