Pintas, Wine & Soul 2009

Plush and powerful, showing a balanced ripeness to the lipsmacking flavors of blueberry, kirsch and dark plum, with notes of cherry tart that are pure-tasting and feature a bracing minerality. Pepper and slate notes extend on the finish, with hints of black licorice. Drink now through 2020. 460 cases made.

The 2009 Pintas I saw twice, in the USA and Portugal. It seemed like a potential star, in the conversation for best Pintas yet - but I'm still going to be conservative, as it was a little closed. It has room for improvement. Remarkably graceful in this big vintage, it is reasonably deep but not at all ponderous, with delicious fruit and beautiful structure. It promises to be impeccably balanced and harmonious. Lush, tasty and classy, it has a lot of upside potential and covers all the bases. Approachable early, this needs a couple of years to come into its own - it could turn out to be brilliant. Drink 2013-2024.

79-year-old vines, foot trodden. Winemakers Sandra Tavares da Silva and Jorge Serôdio Borges. A little darker than the Character, black core. Intense and so aromatic you feel it can't quite escape the glass yet. Scented with dark fruit on the palate. Sweet but not overly sweet fruit. Really concentrated but has such fragrance and refinement. No excess of weight. Beautifully proportioned even in youth and very very long.