Clos de Vougeot, Domaine Denis Mortet 2012

A discreet application of wood highlights the markedly ripe but fresh aromas of various dark berries, pungent earth and humus scents. I like the seductive texture of the middle weight plus flavors that manage to retain good delineation on the notably powerful, dusty and balanced finish that is less youthfully austere than usual. This suave and lush effort is also impressive but note that plenty of patience will be required.

The 2012 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru yielded just four barrels this year, one of them new. It has a powerful, almost ravishing bouquet with vibrant, feisty red berry fruit infused with orange rind and spices. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, superb mineralite and tension that leads to an unexpectedly refined, understated finish with plenty of poise and linearity. One of the best you will find this year.

(75% new oak): Bright, dark red. Expressive aromas of black cherry, wild herbs and menthol; fresher than the Chambolle. Dense, creamy and voluptuous, displaying terrific sucrosite if not quite the grip of Mortet's top wines from Gevrey. Finishes with firm but ripe tannins. Mortet has been getting smaller grapes here in recent years and says that he has been ""working"" the wine less. Excellent potential.