Gruner Veltliner Ried Steinertal, Weingut F.X. Pichler 2012

With his 2012 Gruner Veltliner Smaragd Steinertal, says Lucas Pichler, “the aim is to showcase the vineyard, which is a cool site, whereas in Loiben, really, things are (generally) a bit too warm.” Prior to this solo debut – spurred by the acquisition of a second parcel – the Pichlers’ Gruner Veltliner from this site went into their Loibenberg (and “M”). This solo Steinertal projects delightfully luscious and exuberant pear and melon fruit along with saliva-inducing, metaphorically cooling suggestions of stalk celery. A sweet-smoky bite of Szechuan pepper lends invigoration and cut to a juicily protracted finish. A model of elegance and lift allied to fundamentally rich ripeness, it should perform beautifully through at least 2022.