Margaux 2005

Another celestial effort from Paul Pontallier and Corinne Mentzelopoulus, the 2005 Margaux, a blend of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Merlot, boasts a dense opaque blue/purple color as well as an extraordinary bouquet of spring flowers, blueberries, black raspberries, creme de cassis, licorice, and, despite its having spent two years in 100% new wood, only a subtle touch of toasty oak. Although full-bodied, the wine seems light on its feet because of the silky tannins as well as the great gravel terroir from which it comes. Beautiful purity, length, and nobility define this modern day classic. Is it better than the 2000, 1996, 1990, or some of the vintages from the decade of the eighties? Who knows, but it is unquestionably one of the all-time great wines made at Chateau Margaux. This estate has produced only exceptional wines over the last three decades. The seamlessness of the 2005 suggests it will perform well early, but it should last for a half century or more. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2050+.

Unbelievable nose already. Incredible complexity of aromas, from wild raspberries to flowers and fresh mushrooms. Violets, currants. Love it. Full-bodied, with ultrarefined tannins. Long, long finish. It lasts for minutes on the palate. A wine with classic beauty. May well be 100 points.

Warm, supple, ripe. But with some top quality savoury oak and a dry finish too. Lots of tannin on the finish. Dry but not drying - persistent. Pretty damned classic Bordeaux. Drink 2014-2028. Date tasted 6th May 09.

Very deep, polished purplish crimson right out to the rim. Wonderful lift on top of the amazing depth and richness of the fruit. Great, almost marine, freshness. Opulent is not quite the word because this is not rich and flashy - it's more quintessential Margaux than that - so lifted and truly airborne. Great, great harmony. Truly LOVELY on the nose and then follows this up on the palate - just gorgeous. You really could swallow this with enormous pleasure already because the tannins are so ripe. Wonderfully neat finish. So fresh and refreshing. No heat on the finish. Paul Pontpallier, referring to the level of phenolics, describes this as 'the densest Margaux ever - even more than 2003'. Thirteen per cent alcohol. Very very Cabernet and very fine. Just eight per cent Merlot. Plus six per cent Petit Verdot. Very clean and palate cleansing. Really lovely texture. Drink 2018-35

Since 1978 Margaux has probably been the most consistent of all the First Growths under the assured direction of Paul Pontallier. Always impressive whilst remaining fine and elegant. Quality is maintained here by a rigorous selection process which has resulted in only 40% of the crop being used for the grand vin itself. 85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Merlot with the rest Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. Freshness and finesse, cherries, blackcurrants and raspberries with vanilla pods and a creamy overlay of fine French oak. The tremendous weight of ripe fruit is more than balanced by a wonderfully supple texture and beautiful satin-like sweetness and richness. Dense, yet smooth, this is a complete wine that is powerful yet refined and doesn't shout because its obvious class speaks for itself. The epitome of Margaux charm and elegance, a wine of great breeding, brilliantly made. ONE OF THE WINES OF THE VINTAGE.

Fresh, fruity, really vivid, very fine. Still very youthful with beautiful balance. Will develop into great Margaux. Freshness continues onto the palate, with good depth of flavour, ripe tannins which firm up on second taste. Drink from 2018. Awarded 5 stars.

Marvellously dense colour, double the concentration of flavour compared to Pavillon Rouge, marvellously lifted, extraordinary depth and poise, remarkable purity and density of expression. Drink 2015-60

Saturated red-ruby. Explosive aromas of plum, raspberry, bitter chocolate, coffee, almond paste and smoke; this smells voluptuous. Then extraordinarily opulent on the palate, with an almost marzipan-like ripeness. Coats every square millimeter of the mouth with a texture of liquid silk. The baby fat here is incredible, but there's a structure of steel and powerful minerality underneath. One of the longest samples I tasted in Bordeaux this spring, and a wine with uncanny finishing sweetness. This fabulous vintage of Margaux should evolve positively in bottle for three or four decades in a cold cellar.