We have long been fans of Château Brane Cantenac. Still slightly under the radar maybe, and certainly still reasonably-priced, it is a property that produces unashamedly traditional claret, one with a genuine sense of place. We have just shipped a small parcel of the 2014 vintage, and a bottle opened in the office a couple of weeks ago showed particularly well.
One thing that sets Brane Cantenac apart is owner Henri Lurton, who has worked at the château since 1986, and has been running the show since 1992. Henri is not your typical Bordelais; indeed there is something of the Burgundian about him in his unwavering respect for the château’s terroir above all else. He has never chased high scores from the critics nor followed the trend of the day, preferring the route of assiduous work in the vineyards and pragmatic, intelligent winemaking.
The terroir that Henri is so fiercely proud of is rather special. The heart of the vineyard is the "plateau de Brane", which lies on the Médoc’s “Terrace 4”: this is essentially the cream of the Médoc’s soil and this, combined with Lurton’s understanding of it, makes for a wine with a distinctly classic style and sense of place. Brane-Cantenac is, above all else, Brane Cantenac. To quote Henri speaking to Neal Martin for his excellent review of the château: “Above all, we must reflect the grand terroir. If not, then what is it for?”
Brane Cantenac is a wine that wants, and rewards, time in the bottle and, at twelve years old, the 2014 is just coming into its plateau of maturity, where it will likely stay for the next decade. 2014 remains an under-rated vintage for Bordeaux as a whole, though the wines of the Médoc are excellent, particularly so for fans of traditional, “proper” claret.
Our stock is lying with us, freshly shipped from Bordeaux and packed in wooden cases of six bottles.
The 2014 Brane-Cantenac has an upfront, opulent bouquet with vibrant black fruit, touches of meat juices, mint and potpourri. One of the more complex aromatics within the Margaux flight. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, lightly spiced with a dash of black pepper. This builds in the mouth towards a structured and impressive finish. This should age well in bottle and is a splendid display and one of this vintage's best values. Tasted blind at the Southwold 10-Year-On tasting. Drink 2024-2040.
An excellent wine of classic proportions, 2014 Brane Cantenac is still a fairly deep ruby in the glass with notes of graphite, fresh blackcurrant, dried flowers and saddle leather on the nose. The palate is compact, cool and chalky, screaming of where its from with vibrant acidity, persistent and integrated tannins, and savoury-edged fruit. Drinking superbly now, it is intense and has lovely interplay between fruit and cedary development. It should continue to evolve over the coming 15 plus years, becoming softer and more savoury. Pressed flowers, saddle leather and forest fruits linger on the finish.
