Volnay Taillepieds, Domaine Marquis d'Angerville 2006

This is unusually expressive for young Taillepieds, which is often the most reserved wine in the range, featuring a ripe mélange of red and blue pinot fruit plus violet and rose notes that gracefully introduce sweet, dusty and intense flavors brimming with minerality on the focused, racy and vibrant finish. Like the Champans, this is notably austere, which is typical and will require at least a decade to be at its best. Terrific.

Medium red. Perfumed nose offers medicinal red and black cherry, flowers and spices. Broad but a bit brooding on the palate, although aeration brought a sweeter, lusher texture, with an element of white pepper providing lift. Finishes with dusty tannins, a note of sweet oak and a lovely light touch. There's a tactile quality and a saline character here, as well as a slight rusticity to the tannins that Guillaume d'Angerville says is true to the terroir "I always have the image of an old man sitting on a wall," he explained. Quite reserved today but with plenty of chewy depth.