Bienvenue Bâtard Montrachet, Etienne Sauzet 2003

A complex and beautifully transparent nose reveals vanilla, pear and white flowers that highlight the delicious, textured, sweet and deep flavors that offer the most complexity and sheer class to this point. The old vine sap is immediately apparent and while this is not a bigger or more powerful wine than the Combettes, there is simply another dimension present here. Really lovely stuff whose only nit is a hint of finishing warmth.

The toasted mineral-scented 2003 Bienvenue-Batard-Montrachet (white) (total production: 80 cases) is medium-bodied, sappy, and suave. Resin-laced minerals are intermingled with toast in this glycerin-imbued effort. In addition, its long, supple finish reveals notes of creamed almonds. Anticipated maturity: now-2013.