Tertre Rôteboeuf 1999

A hedonistic, head-turning crowd pleaser, this dark ruby-colored, flamboyant 1999 boasts a knockout perfume of scorched earth, smoked herbs, jammy black cherry fruit, chocolate, and roasted coffee. Plump and fleshy, with low acidity, excellent purity, outstanding concentration, and no hard edges, this is seamless, gorgeous Le Tertre Roteboeuf to drink over the next 12 years. Last tasted, 3/02.

The 1999 is another triumph from Francois Mitjaville, and a personal favourite, bursting from the glass in a blaze of decadent black fruits, exotic spice tones, tar, cedarwood and autumn leaves. On the palate the wine shows a lovely balance between fruit which is rich but not confectionery and bright sappy acids. The tannins have nicely melted and some tertiary complexity is beginning to emerge, but it will still be cruising along in a decade. With this wine, Mitjavile completely subverts the reputation of the 1999 vintage, and the result is something like Saint Emilion’s answer to Musigny.