| Region | |
|---|---|
| Subregion | New Zealand > Auckland |
| Colour | White |
| Type | Still |
The 2012 Estate Chardonnay offers aromas of honeyed toast and cashews with a pronounced core of ripe nectarines and grapefruit plus a complimentary citrus lift. Medium-bodied, the palate provides great concentration with a nice yeasty character coming through in the long finish. Drink 2014 - 2018.
Light and bright on the nose the start of the palate is fresh with a mix of citrus and apple. Richer
and sweeter in the middle some ripe greengage but the back palate is apple fresh with flavours
that linger. 2015-19
Bright lemon in the glass. A ripe lemon and pear nose with hints of struck flint and smoke. The palate has good weight and viscosity, with a richness of lemon curd and vanilla. A lovely balance between ripe citrus and cool stone fruit, with refreshing acidity and a little toasted spice on the long finish.
Fine and fresh with a pure, mineral core and lovely precision. Gentle but bright with midweight citrus and pear as well as subtle hazelnut and toast.
Extremely well-mannered, discreet nose with nothing out of place. Lots of crystalline precision and refinement. Excellent balance. Good presence in the mouth. Exciting and tense. Readier than the others. Drink 2014-2019.
Sweet honeysuckle nose with some vanilla showing. Quite a rich wine for this producer with a great, creamy texture, thanks to slightly less pronounced acidity than usual for this producer. Where is that piece of turbot? Drink or hold. Screw cap.
Tasted blind at Farr Vintners Kumeu/White Burgundy tasting. The 2012 Estate Chardonnay from Kumeu River has more tropical tones on the nose compared to Sauzet’s Puligny-Montachet: hints of passion fruit and nectarine accompanying the fine mineral scents, though it would benefit from a little more vigor. The palate is refreshing and citrus-driven on the entry. There is lovely balance and harmony here, nicely weighted toward the leesy. This is a very fine Chardonnay from the Brajkovich family. Drink: 2015 - 2028
I attended a very special tasting of Chardonnays from the most famous producer of this grape in New Zealand, at Farr Vintners HQ, the other day. Chairman Stephen Browett explained that he had been shipping wines from the Brajkovich family for decades and that, for him, they are some of the world’s greatest white wines. I have been buying and recommending these wines since day one, too, but I have never tasted old bottles nor have I pitted them against great Burgundies. After four flights of blind wines, each including very expensive and highly rated white Burgundies, with a Kumeu Chardonnay hiding among the pack, the scores, from the great and the good of the industry, were collated. The Kumeu Chardonnays won three out of four flights. My featured wine trumped four of the biggest names in the world! Finely balanced, elegant and built on a base of devastating acidity, the Chardonnays made at Kumeu River are all thrilling. Some very old bottles, poured with pride by owner Paul Brajkovich, proved that they age very well, too. I can highly recommend these wines with 2012 Kumeu River Hunting Hill Chardonnay (£220ib) and my featured Estaste cuvée crushing the Old World stars with ease! You must find a space for these wines in your cellar.
