CDP les Cailloux Cuvée Centenaire, Domaine André Brunel - Domaine les Cailloux 2003

The limited production but exquisite 2003 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Centenaire is a riper, more concentrated version of the 2000 Centenaire. There are about 500 cases of this Grenache-dominated wine produced from a vineyard planted in 1889 with some Syrah and Mourvedre (about 20%) added to the blend. The latter components are aged in small barrels. The wine has a dense ruby/purple-tinged color to the rim, a strikingly pure nose of kirsch liqueur, creme de cassis, and hints of vanilla and espresso. Hitting the palate with full-throttle opulence, superb concentration, fabulous purity, and striking multiple levels of raspberries and black cherry jam, this is a beautifully full-bodied, brilliantly concentrated and structured wine that reveals sweet but abundant tannin and a finish that goes on for close to a minute. I still think the two greatest Centenaires made to date have been the 1990 and 1998, but this one is close in quality. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2020+.

Rich, powerful and almost port-like, Brunel's 2003 Cuvee Centenaire is locked and loaded with notions of kirsch liqueur, garrigue, roasted meats and licorice that flow to a full-bodied, concentrated Chateauneuf du Pape that possesses a core of sweet fruit, gorgeous texture and a heady finish that seems to go on and on. Fully mature, with completely integrated tannin, it is certainly not for the low alcohol crowd, yet offers up a thrillingly rich drinking experience. I don't see any upside here and would enjoy bottles over the coming handful of years.

Only made in the greatest vintages, the 2003 (about 500 cases produced) may come close to equaling the perfect 1998 and 1990. Eighty percent of this cuvee comes from an old Grenache vineyard planted in 1889 and 20% is Syrah and Mourvedew. The deep ruby/purple-hued 2003 exhibits an explosive bouquet of freshly ground Indian wynad pepper, loads of garrigue and glorious levels of kirsch liquer intermixed with plums and raspberries. The flamboyant aromatics lead to a wine that is almost like jam (or as the French say confiture). Extremely full-bodied and multidimensional with enormous layers of fruit, extract and glycerin this powerful yet incredibly pure, elegant CDP is more flamboyant, sexy and precocious that the structured, backward 2001 but slightly more concentrated than the glorious 2000. The superb 2003 Cuvee Centrnaire is a candidate for "wine of the vintage" in CDP. Anticipated maturity 2009 - 2023. As a postscript in spite of the fact that part of this cuvee is aged in new barriques it rarely reveals much of a toasty/pain grille note.