CDP les Cailloux Cuvée Centenaire, Domaine André Brunel - Domaine les Cailloux 2005

The 2005 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Centenaire is dense ruby to the rim and exhibits an almost explosive nose of kirsch liqueur intermixed with spring flowers, spice box, and some roasted herbs and a subtle whiff of oak. It is dense, pure, full-bodied, relatively high in tannin, and closed and structured. The finish has significant tannins, and the wine seems on the verge of shutting down in the bottle. It is the antithesis of the charming, seductive, rather opulent 2006, but this wine is loaded and certainly will handsomely repay those with patience as well as a cold cellar. Give it 4-5 years of bottle age and drink it over the following two decades.

A big, rich and ripe wine, the tiny production 2005 Châteauneuf du Pape Cuvee Centenaire (80% Grenache, 15% Mourvèdre and 5% Syrah) comes all from the Farguerol lieu-dit that's located in the northwestern sector of the appellation. It offers a smorgasbord of Provencal aromas and flavors, with tons of sweet kirsch, roasted herbs, beef blood, black licorice and garrigue soaring from the glass. Full-bodied, voluptuous and downright sexy, with no hard edges and a seamless style, this is one hedonistic and gorgeous Châteauneuf du Pape to drink anytime over the coming 5-6 years.

Richly layered, with currant paste, Black Forest cake, espresso, mesquite, date and insence notes. Ripe and lush, this is far more supple than most of its 2005 peers. The finish is long and dense but very silky, with lingering notes of macerated fruit and black tea. Drink now through 2025.

The blockbuster 2005 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Centenaire, which is 80% Grenache (from the aforementioned vineyard planted in 1889 in the sector of Chateauneuf du Pape known as Fauguerol), and the rest 20% Syrah and Mourvedre aged in small barrels, is normally a 600-case cuvee, but in 2005, because of the low yields, it’s around 400 cases. Brunel thinks this is the best cuvee he has made of this particular wine since 1998. It is a wine of great intensity, beautifully sweet creme de cassis notes and cherry liqueur intermixed with licorice, incense, flowers, and a subtle hint of smoke. Full-bodied, opulent, and rich, with huge layers of fruit and remarkable concentration and purity, this is always one of the great Chateauneuf du Papes, and it is certainly that in 2005. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2025. Andre Brunel has always been one of the most progressive and brilliant proprietors of Chateauneuf du Pape and the good news is that he has purchased 40 hectares (that’s over 100 acres) of high-class Cotes du Rhone vineyards near Chateauneuf du Pape, so we can expect to see larger quantities of serious wines emerge.