Shiraz The Dead Arm, D'Arenberg 1998

One of the most backward wines included in the June tasting, this 1998 needs another 4-5 years to reach full maturity. Everything is here, including a dense ruby/purple color, and subtle but impressive notes of damp earth, roasted meats, herbs, spice box, pepper, and black fruits. Tannic, full-bodied, and youthful, it is capable of lasting another 25-30 years.

The 1998 The Dead Arm Shiraz (from a vineyard planted prior to 1890) is outrageously rich, spectacular stuff, the likes of which only Australia seems capable of making. Whiners may complain that it is too big, too rich, too flavorful, and too damn good, but this opaque purple-coloured offering is loaded with blackberry liqueur, smoke, charcoal, pepper, cassis and licorice. Unctuously-textured and full-bodied, but neither heavy nor overbearing, the wine's sweet tannin and low acidity are hidden in the cascade of fruit and glycerin that melt on the palate. This riveting, compelling effort can be drunk now, but promises to age well for two decades or more.