Climens 2007

Tasted single blind against its peers. Chateau Climens always tends to go into its shell after bottling, which is probably why I was not dishing out an even higher score to this still, spellbinding Barsac. The 2007 is endowed with a lovely bouquet: very pure with honey, a touch of orange-blossom and a touch of quince. The palate is very well-balanced with great purity and a dash of spice as well as a lovely viscous, botrytis-laden finish that possesses awesome weight and persistency. This is a slice of heaven in a glass, but it definitely needs time to reveal its true potential.

As usual, no finished blend of this wine was available for tasting. Instead we tasted five different possible ingredients, and this year a first possible pre-assemblage blend - one of 39 pre-assemblages. It is truly sobering to think how much wine must be expectorated before Bérénice Lurton and her team are happy to bottle a final blend. The most thrilling was a sample picked on 17 Oct as part of the relatively big second trie, or passage through the vineyard. It had a heady aroma of hazelnuts and was amazingly substantial in terms of both body and richness, the keynote of the best 2007 Sauternes. A slightly dry finish (something evident on the Yquem 2007 too) but so fascinating in terms of its array of elements. The wines from the first trie were much lighter and simpler but had great clarity and freshness while the third trie’s produce seemed lighter than the second too. But overall, this should be a very promising year for Climens

Bérénice Lurton refuses to submit a sample of a wine which is not the final blend, so I tasted nine different elements: two from the first trie or selection, three from the second trie, one third trie, one mixed assemblage from the first and third pickings, and one from the first and fourth. The impression was of an incredible mosaic of contrasting yet complementary elements, combining great concentration (mostly wonderfully perfumed) with beautifully unctuous textures and complex fruit flavours, often very honeyed; all marked by a glorious freshness and purity. Residual sugar levels are around 150g at present. It is hard to imagine much better wine than this. 5 stars.

Tasted twice at UGC tastings, it was actually under blind conditions that the Climens 2007 re-confirmed its status as the best Sauternes of the vintage. It retains an ethereal bouquet of honey, white peach, apricot and orange-blossom with ethereal purity and joie de vivre. The palate is medium-bodied with exquisite balance and essence of mineralite. It balances on tiptoe with perfect acidity that effortlessly counterpoises those layers of rich honeyed fruit; the finish taut, vibrant and with a sense of place. This is outstanding in every way. Perfect? I would not bet against it deserving that loaded adjective one day in the future. Drink 2015-2050.

Multiple tastings of barrels and two micro-blends with Bérénice Lurton at the château and each one more breathtaking than the last! An intensely minerally nose with astounding delineation and poise with hints of wild honey, orange-blossom and a little almond. The palate displays brilliant balance, so much so that the 150-160gms/L residual is barely noticeable. A sublime viscous, honeyed, peach-tinged finish that leaves the palate tingling with glee. To quote my own words: ..it encapsulates everything you love about Sauternes... Bravo Bérénice. Drink 2010-2050+ Tasted April 2008