Taylor Vargellas Vinha Velhas, Taylor Fladgate 2004

The 2004 Quinta de Vargellas Vinha Velha Vintage Port is a typical field blend aged in used French oak vats. It comes in with 94 grams per liter of residual sugar. Flamboyant on the nose, although not as much as the 2007 is, this is solid in the mid-palate and is almost drinking decently now. Almost. The tannins are not too astringent, making this surprisingly approachable at this young age, but that is a relative comment. More aeration still makes this close up. It then seems very firm and much sterner. To me, this hasn't quite reached the point where you really will want to drink it, but it's not impossible and not far from becoming more harmonious. If you must dive in, give it some air. This is a very fine but not a truly great Vinha Velha.