CDP Secret de Sabon, Domaine Roger Sabon 2000

The 2000 Chateauneuf du Pape le Secret du Sabon is more open and evolved, with a perfumed, sexy style. It offers a complex array of sweet red fruits, leather, flowers, peppery herbs and spice to go with a pure, elegant, graceful style. It's more approachable than the 2001, yet doesn't quite match that vintage's core of fruit or concentration. Plan on drinking this over the coming 4-5 years.

For readers fortunate enough to latch onto the super-expensive Chateauneuf du Pape Le Secret des Sabon, the 2000 may not be as profound as the 1998, but it is a terrific effort. A deep plum/purple color is accompanied by subtle notes of pepper, spice, truffles, earth, smoked meats, prunes, and a wealth of black currant and cherry fruit. Although full-bodied, rich, and concentrated, with majestic layers of flavor that unfold on the palate, the 2000 remains closed and tannic, so patience is suggested. Anticipated maturity: 2006-2020.

Now this is a wonderful Chateauneuf-du-Pape. It has an unashamed, glorious, stinky, bretty nose that clears to reveal some lovely tarry black fruit. Medium-bodied on the palate with good acidity, firm structure counterbalancing the layers of supple, ripe black fruit with touches of pain grille and black pepper, yet surprisingly introverted towards the finish with black truffle on the aftertaste. It will doubtlessly give more in the future. Drink 2010-2030. Tasted June 2008.