Shiraz Savitar, Mitolo Wines 2004

Bordering on perfection is the 2004 Shiraz Savitar. Made from 30- to 50-year-old vines, and aged 18 months in 100% new French hogsheads as well as smaller barriques, it boasts an opaque purple color, and an extraordinary nose of acacia flowers, blueberries, raspberries, and blacker fruits, melted licorice, and graphite. It possesses amazing intensity, great equilibrium, a fabulous, multi-layered mid-palate, and a blockbuster finish. This extraordinary Shiraz should prove to be one of the legends of southern Australia's great 2004 vintage. Drink it over the next 12-15 years. For a winery only established in 1999, and dedicated to hand-crafted, artisinal wines, Mitolo has consistently been a revelation in my tastings. Thanks to owner Frank Mitolo and his brilliant winemaker, Ben Glaetzer, the quality has been truly splendid.