Vosne Romanée Malconsorts, Domaine Sylvain Cathiard 2006

A gorgeously layered and deep nose of spicy, and once again notably cool black pinot fruit seems to offer up a different nuance with each examination and serves as a classy intro to the supple, rich, round and strikingly pure mouth coating flavors brimming with dry extract on the hugely long finish that exhibits serious power. This is a big yet refined wine that remains the current reference standard for Malconsorts though, happily, there will be more serious competition going forward with Domaines Dujac and de Montille coming to the party. Impressive but note that patience will be required.

Cathiard's 2006 Vosne-Romanee Les Malconsorts allies purple plum with decadent, heady, faded lily-like floral perfume and dark spices, including clove, cinnamon, and star anise. This has greater density and tanninity than other Cathiard 2006s I tasted, but the texture is nonetheless refined. There is an intriguing fresh, clean meatiness here, akin to freshly-butchered, meadow-fed lamb, and a Latakia-like smokiness threads its way through the long braiding of floral, mineral, fruit, and carnal that is this Pinot's fascinating finish. Here is the mystery of Vosne personified. I can see no reason to overlook this in the next few years, but would definitely plan on following it for at least as decade.