You know you are in for a special night when the first wine served is Krug's 1988 Clos du Mesnil. Where do I start? Everything about the wine is sensational from start to finish. An endless array of crushed rocks, minerals and bright citrus emerges from this intensely pointed, chiseled Champagne. The elegance, though, is really in the texture. The wine has acquired an element of vinosity over the years, with the tiniest and finest of bubbles and simply extraordinary finesse. It is a wine of mind-blowing purity and breathtaking elegance. Simply put, wine does not get better than this. The 1988 Clos du Mesnil is an eternal wine.
This is displaying moderate amounts of age with its distinctly yeasty and brioche-infused nose that offers really lovely complexity as well as a trace of citrus character. Like all of the best ‘88s today there is still excellent intensity and punch to the equally well-layered flavors that are shaped by firm effervescence that exhibits no signs of falling off, all wrapped in a markedly dry and ever-so-mildly austere finish. While this beauty has clearly peaked it shows zero signs of decline and thus can be enjoyed anytime over the next 20 years or so. Drink now+
A tightly wound thoroughbred, with complex nut and biscuit notes playing off a floral freshness. Driving it all is a racy acidity matched by a seamless elegance and innate power that lingers through the persistent ginger-tinged finish. Will age beautifully. Drink now through 2008. 1,200 cases made.
Opulent hazelnut, brioche and apple strudel aromas on the nose with a faint whiff of chalk dust. The palate is restrained and notably taut for Krug with high acidity and tightly wound roasted nut, stone fruit and toasted croissant flavours. Fine, frisky bubbles and a long praline finish. Drink now - 2020. Tasted January 2009.
One the great modern-day Krug vintages, the 1988 does not disappoint. Ordered off the hotel list in Zurich, it has a deep greeny/gold allure, the bouquet honeyed and rich with touches of hazelnut and a touch of almond with brilliant definition. The palate is approaching full maturity, again with breathtaking definition with what feels like some botrytized fruit with its tincture of honey. Perfect acidity with a sense of symmetry and naturalness on the finish, those hints of walnut reminding me of a fine, mature Meursault. Wonderful. Drink now-2018+ Tasted November 2009.