Bollinger Vieilles Vignes Francaises 1999

Marvellously creamy and intensively elegant in a modern, polished way despite muscles as great as the Gluteus Maximus on a thoroughbred. Already fantastically long and homogenous with a colossally compact layer of fruit that ranges from pear to fig. Tempting to enjoy it now at once, and that is no crime, but if one is oneself in good shape then one ought to wait until the wine's twentieth birthday before one's next meeting when the complexity of truffles will have developed fully.