Hill of Grace, Henschke 1999

Deep garnet-purple in color, the 1999 Hill of Grace presents fragrant notes of warm blackberries and black cherries with hints of menthol, dried thyme and sage, licorice, dark chocolate and black olives. Full-bodied, rich and powerful, it has firm, chewy tannins, crisp acid and a long finish. It is still very youthful in the mouth with lots of flavor layers. It is drinking well now and should continue to cellar through 2035+.

Some might be surprised by how translucent a garnet this wine is – concentration is clearly no virtue here. Hauntingly well-integrated nose seems more evolved than that of stablemate Mount Edelstone – although admittedly I have had this wine in a young wine decanter for two hours – and would advise others to do the same. It's so much more of a Côte Rôtie than a Hermitage! Fresh and playful rather than brooding. It builds on the finish in a sort of burgundian way. Aromas of tar, iodine and dried brush. Great precision and a saline finish. A hugely confident style and so unlike the medicinal concentration of Penfolds Grange made down the hill in Barossa Valley. 2020 - 2040

This is one of the most luxurious and glamorously upholstered Hill of Grace Shiraz I have tasted and for this reason, I would bet that everyone, expert and novice alike, will love it, and you cannot say that about many top-end red wines.