Muntada, Domaine Gauby 2005

For all of its sense of density, this boasts ultra-refined, silken tannins and finishes almost light on its feet, with a subtlety that invites deep contemplation, yet mineral notes so vivid, one imagines a compass could be used to take this wine's bearings. 2005 Cotes du Roussillon Villages Muntada perpetuates the relatively lean, bright, athletically dynamic, buoyant yet penetrating style that Gauby has struck in the last several vintages, yet has a texture like satin. Marjoram, juniper berry, cinnamon, toasted nuts, black fruits, raw beef, and wood smoke in the nose usher in an electrically-charged flood of fresh, bright blackberry laced with herbs and crushed stone. This offers a sheer lift and refreshment that few red wines this densely-concentrated deliver. A U.S. retail price has not yet been set, but can probably be expected to run around $115.