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The medium-to-dark ruby-colored 1998 Musigny has gorgeous aromas of red and black fruits as well as a magnificent array of spices and flowers. While it has extraordinary quantities of fruit (including raspberries, blackberries, and flower-imbued cherries), it is also extremely tannic and hard. This expressive, well-ripened wine poses a quandary for a wine critic. Its fruit is mightily impressive, and its tannin is equally scary