Sophia, Craggy Range 2008

A blend of 89% Merlot, 8% Cabernet Sauvignon, 2% Malbec and 1% Cabernet Franc and matured in 52% new oak for 19 months, the 2008 Sophia is initially very closed on the nose with reluctant aromas of bilberry, black plum and a touch of cassis, later offering black olive and a hint of melted tar. The palate is underpinned by a firm tannic backbone, quite broody and uncompromising at first but delivering a scintillating, saline finish with crisp blackberry and boysenberry with great minerality. Drink 2012-2025.

Very grown-up, sophisticated, complex nose. Lovely build. Fluid fruit with masses of minerality and some nicely judged tannins. A wine for the long term (though it would age just as well in a bottle half this weight..) Really appetising. Still too young and the acidity is notable at the moment. Neat.