Maté's Vineyard Chardonnay, Kumeu River 2009

The 2009 Mate's Vineyard Chardonnay has a beautifully expressive and complex nose already, with notes of ripe apples, white peaches, butterscotch and pineapple over savory undertones of croissant, crushed nuts and yeast extract plus a whiff of struck match and wet pebbles. Medium bodied with a beautiful satiny quality to the texture, the fruit remains a bit tight though very concentrated with crisp acid to enliven and a long layered finish. Consider drinking it 2013 to 2019+.

This is a little phenolic with lemon rind and hints of cream and apple. Some would call it tannic. Full and fruity nougat with lovely savory and ripe fruit character. Layered and beautiful. Corton-Charlemagne. Shows a salty undertone.

The fruit is sweet but behind the rich mix of fruits there is freshness and fragrance. Opulent supple fleshy richness in the middle yellow peach backed by apricot and honeydew melon the layers of ripe fruit are underpinned by apple giving complexity the back palate is rich and deep the finish leaner with flints and crushed sea shells. 2018-24

Aromatic, soft and supple, with honey, butterscotch and toasted brioche notes that are as intense as they appear effortless. This delivers plenty of lemon and pear flavors, with a long finish. Drink now through 2016. 1,000 cases made.

Chardonnay is another strength among the country's whites, though the category tends to be dominated by perennial superstar Kumeu River. This year there are four outstanding Chardonnays from this North Island estate on the outskirts of Auckland, including this report's highest-scoring white, the Kumeu Coddington 2009 (94).

Quite tight aromatics, restraint, fleshy tropical yellow fruits and a hint of exoticism. Fine silky opulence, plush, textural and very expressive.

Complex and fine with grapefruit, peach, subtle toast. Nice concentration, some minerality and focused fruit.

Glowing straw gold. Light and fresh on the nose. Sweet start. Pleasing and flattering without being absolutely true to house style. A tad duller. Grinds to a halt on the end rather. Sweet finish.
Drink 2015-2025

Barrels are by Séguin Moreau and Mercurey so quite strong but not as strong as the Gillet. 30% new oak. Older vines and Mendoza clone. Planted 1990. Last vineyard picked each year. Leafroll virus is in Mendoza clone so you get millerandage (some small berries within the bunches) but also harder to ripen.
Green fruit and hay and a touch of caramel sweetness. More spicy too and oak very discreet. Complex and has a definite phenolic grip. Mealy and long and so fresh. Lovely delicate reductive notes and smoky. Very creamy too, especially on the nose. (JH) 13.5%
Drink 2013-2020

This starts extremely well with lots of lime blossom and the racy acidity gives the finish substantial force. Not quite the ripeness of the best vintages. Drink now. Screw cap.