Valpolicella Superiore, Dal Forno Romano 2005

Dal Forno should really change the name of his 2005 Valpolicella Superiore. This is really an Amarone for all practical intents and purposes, since 2002 made entirely from fruit that has been dried, albeit for less time than that legally required for Amarone. Firm, sturdy tannins frame blackberries, blueberries, violets and new leather in the 2005 Valpolicella. This is an especially structured, shut-down wine, even within the context of Dal Forno. Patience is the key, yet the wine's gorgeous inner perfume and sheer depth suggest that all that is required is patience. With time in the glass the tannins soften just enough to get a glimpse of what awaits those who are patient enough to hold this wine for a few years. Bittersweet chocolate, graphite and tar are layered into the authoritative finish.