Oberhauser Brucke Spatlese, Weingut Dönnhoff 2010

Green tea, lavender, honeysuckle and framboise distillate penetratingly scent Donnhoff's 2010 Oberhauser Brucke Riesling Spatlese, their proxies reappearing, along with fresh lime, red raspberry, and drippingly-ripe pear, on a palate of striking purity, refinement, and levity. To an undertone of wet stone in the finish are added site-typical saline, carnal, and brown butter savor. Look for two decades of bewitchment from this beauty. "When I saw the analyses that came back on this year's Spatlesen," notes Donnhoff, "I had them run again because I couldn't believe we had close to 100 Oechsle even on the least of them."

Subtle bouquet of gooseberry, nut oil and acacia blossom. On the palate, the delicately creamy papaya fruit is counterpointed by citrus and slate. The long finish offers an amalgamation of spices and mineral salts.