Gevrey Chambertin Champeaux, Domaine Fourrier 2008

The Fourrier 2008 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Champeaux displays marrowy richness along with depth of ripe red and black fruits; smoked meat stock; and a silken texture that are already irresistible. “I see Les Goulots as more Chambolle-like and aloof, and Champeaux as more generous,” remarks Fourrier, and they are playing precisely those roles today, with a winsome hint of peony floral perfume that wafts through this Champeaux enhancing its appeal. This lingers with sedate, layered complexity quite different from the dynamic sense of energy that informs so many of the best 2008s.