Saint Joseph Sainte Epine, Delas Frères 2009

The blockbuster 2009 St.-Joseph Ste.-Epine exhibits an opaque purple color as well as a remarkable nose of black fruits, graphite, ink, incense and subtle barbecue smoke. Elegant yet massive and rich, with an unctuous texture and good underlying acidity (although less than in 2010), this deep, full-bodied, powerful 2009 should drink well for two decades or more.

One of the top three or four wines of the appellation, the 2009 St.-Joseph Ste.-Epine is a seriously endowed, opaque purple-colored effort revealing notes of ink, lead pencil shavings, blackberries, toast, licorice, pepper and a liqueur of minerality. This full-bodied, somewhat reserved St.-Joseph is built for long-term aging. The least accessible of these 2009 St.-Josephs, it will benefit from 4-5 years of cellaring and drink well for 15+ years.

Under the inspired leadership of winemaker/administrator Jacques Grange, who has carte blanche authority from the proprietors, the Louis Roederer/Deutz Champagne firm, Delas has been on a fabulous qualitative roll for over a decade. They have enjoyed some great successes, so it is hard to say 2009 may be the magnum opus of Jacques Grange, but it certainly looks fabulous.