Riesling Rangen de Thann, Clos St Urbain, Domaine Zind-Humbrecht 2009

Finishing at a 13.4% alcohol and seven grams of residual sugar not noticeable as such, the Zind-Humbrecht 2009 Riesling Rangen Clos Saint Urbain smells intensely of bergamot and smoky black tea and peat, which - along with briny and ashen notes - accent juicy white peach and apple on a polished palate. This finishes with prodigiously lip-smacking length and subtle pungency, encouraging the belief that it will be worth following for a dozen or more years and that greater complexity will emerge.