Wehlener Sonnenuhr Auslese, Weingut Joh. Jos. Prum 2006

This bright-colored wine delivers a stunning and telltale “2006 JJ Prüm” nose of coconut, pineapple, yellow peach and minerals. The wine is richly fruity on the palate, where some cassis brings great freshness and depth to the complex set of aromatics. The finish and above all the after-taste are however still remarkably sweet and in need of integration. Once achieved, this will be a cracker of an Auslese! 2026-2056

The 2006 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese shows considerable fermentative overlay from yeast, CO2 and sulfur, so that it took some patience to coax it out from under. Pear, quince, gardenia and honey inform a creamy palate and wafting finish. This lacks the energy of the Himmelreich at present, but its combination of richness with delicacy and the purity of its finishing expression of ennobled fruit speak to a fine future, perhaps three decades or more. (There were two bottlings of this wine - one this year - of which I tasted the first, A.P. #16 07.)