Chevalier Montrachet, Domaine Leflaive 2011

An ultra-elegant, pure and strikingly expressive nose of airy and intensely spicy acacia blossom, wet stone, lemon peel and various white-fleshed fruit aromas. There is a lilting mouth feel to the gorgeously intense, precise and cuts-like-a-knife medium weight plus flavors that brim with mineral and an abundance of dry extract that coats the palate on the hugely long finish. The balance is impeccable and this will be one of the relatively few 2011s that should amply reward longer-term cellaring.

Subdued but pure aromas of pineapple, crushed rock and white flowers; less fruity today than the Bienvenue or Batard. Then fat and ripe but with terrific verve to the mineral and spice flavors. With a few minutes in the glass, this highly concentrated, electric wine came across as more tightly coiled, with its energy and cut becoming more apparent. Most impressive today on the extremely long, perfumed back end, which leaves the palate vibrating under a layer of mineral dust. Winemaker Remy says he wouldn't start drinking this wine for 12 years.