Brunello di Montalcino Riserva, Biondi Santi 2001

Biondi-Santi's 2001 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva is just as terrific in bottle as it was when I tasted it from cask last year. A dark, translucent red, it reveals superb freshness in its aromatics, with notes of small red fruits, spices, flowers, mint and anise that you could get lost in. It is perhaps less rewarding on the palate today, but its class is amply evident in the purity of its fruit and silkiness of its tannins. This is a wine built for tertiary development that will occur over the following years and decades. Readers who appreciate classically built, age-worthy wines and have the time to wait will find much to admire. In the meantime, this Brunello is all about potential, and there is plenty of that here. It is a great effort. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2041.

Medium light, bright ruby. Captivating aromas of underripe red cherry, redcurrant, orange zest, tobacco and leather, all lifted by a lovely floral twist. Lean and penetrating on entry, then fleshier in the middle and concentrated, with enticing sour red cherry, almond and plum flavors. Bright, almost shrill acids give the flavors laser-like precision and a very clean, pure quality on the extremely long, fine-grained finish. Paradigmatic old-school Brunello but with a degree of flesh and concentration not always apparent here in recent vintages. Given my experience with these Brunellos (I recently had the 1970, 1964, and 1955, all still in fine form), I'd say this one will be around longer than you or I will.