Branaire Ducru 2013

The 2013 Branaire-Ducru did not particularly impress when I tasted it from barrel. Now in bottle, it feels anonymous, a little dusty on the nose and there is an aromatic hole where the fruit ought to be. Enervated? The palate is medium-bodied with more weight than the nose suggests, but it is very conservative and feels light and ephemeral towards the finish that needs more substance. This Saint Julien estate has overseen better wines than the 2013 in recent years.

A juicy young wine with berry, cherry and currant character. Medium to full body, with well-integrated tannins and a juicy finish. Pure and delicious. Very well done.

The Château Branaire Ducru 2013, a blend of 63% Cabernet Sauvignon, 31% Merlot, 5% Petit Verdot and 1% Cabernet Franc picked between 30 September and 15 October cropped at 33hl/ha. Patrick Maroteaux told me that the older vines did not suffer so much from coulure. I tasted the wines on three occasions, once at the château and twice elsewhere. It has a simple bouquet with light, slightly herbaceous black fruit laced with graphite, not dissimilar to that of Beychevelle. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannins. There is just a little coarseness in this Branaire Ducru, a little angular at the moment although it has a little more persistency than Beychevelle with the graphite note lending it a Pauillac-like sensibility, though it cuts off very abruptly. This is a decent, honest Branaire Ducru made in a classic off-dry style but it desperately needs more substance. Tasted March 2014.