Calon Ségur 2013

The 2013 Calon Segur is unquestionably one of the stars of the vintage. The harvest ran from early October for the Merlot grape and to the second full week of October for the Cabernet Sauvignon. I don't recall (although I'd have to go through all my notes for the last 3-4 years) a Calon Segur with this high a percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon, as Merlot has always been a prominent player in the final blend. It is opaque purple in color with a glorious nose of incense, creme de cassis, licorice and a touch of graphite. The wine is full-bodied, opulent, fleshy and surprisingly deep and dense, especially for a wine from this vintage. It is almost atypically thick and rich for a 2013. Nevertheless, the tannins are soft and the wine should be relatively approachable after 2-3 years bottle age. This is a property on the move, upward. Smart and shrewd readers will take a look at this vintage, as well as future vintages of Calon Segur, a terroir with true first-growth potential.

Calon Segur was purchased from the Gasqueton family by Suravenir, a large French insurance company. It is no secret that this is one of the greatest vineyards in Bordeaux, if not the world, and while the wines have always been impressive, there has always been considerable room for improvement. 2013 may mark an historic transition from a consistently excellent-to-outstanding wine, to one that is poised to be another potential first-growth of the Medoc. The yields were 36 hectoliters per hectare producing a final blend of 92 % Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Merlot and 2% Petit Verdot with an impressive natural alcohol level of 13.1%.

The 2013 Calon Segur is a Saint Estèphe that should not be ignored. It has developed an attractive bouquet with blackberry, graphite and a hint of vanilla in the background. No, it is not an intense bouquet, yet winemaker Vincent Millet has conjured aromatics that frankly shade many other Left Bank properties this year. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin and crisp acidity. There is tangible energy here with a cohesive and silky textured finish. What is lacks in depth it compensates with a sense of panache. It will be earlier drinking than other vintages, but the class comes through. Bravo to Vincent and his team for making the best wine they possibly could in this challenging vintage.

This is a wonderful bottle for the vintage with currant, violet, mushroom and forest fruit character yet always subtle. Full body, tight and silky. A beautiful finish. All in finesse. Sweet fruit on the finish. Mostly cabernet sauvignon. Drink or hold.

The Calon Segur 2013 is a blend of 92% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Merlot and 2% Petit Verdot delivering 13.1% alcohol raised for 20 months (eventually) entirely new oak. There was a little chaptalization with respect to the Cabernet Sauvignon. It actually included 19% vin de presse, which was included in this sample. The wood comes through quite strongly on the aromatics at first and at the moment it seems to dominate the fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with tobacco infused black fruit. This is balanced with well-judged acidity, a little softer towards the finish than previous recent vintages. It is a pleasant Calon-Segur but it needs to develop more personality, but it is a successful wine considering the growing season. Tasted April 2014.