Tokaji Nyulaszo 6 Putts, Royal Tokaji Wine Company 2008

The 2008 Nyulászó 6 Puttonyos Aszú has a deep burnished amber color. The nose is very complex, initially offering melted candle wax and apricot on the nose. (The latter actually reminded me of Jaffa Cakes!) Leaving it aside for one hour, it blossoms in the glass, revealing Satsuma and mango aromas. The palate is rounded and citric on the entry. This has the same level of energy and tension as the 2007, that acidity almost piercing toward the finish. But there is a scintillating level of penetration here, and the finish leaves the mouth so fresh that you will hanker for the next sip.

This means hare/rabbit hunting land. Red volcanic soil and clay leads to great complexity and general robustness. They had thought this site would have the least terroir. RS 161g/l provided a completely different character. 53 ha of which they have 17 ha. Half of that was replanted in 2001, some later. Many of the eastern slopes had new Hungarian vine crosses which are not suitable for Tokaj. Two thirds Furmint and one third Kabar vines planted. Kabar is relatively low acid. Elegant. Very subtle, rather Alsacelike nose with a touch of smokiness. Subtle and racy. Lots to chew on. Quite savoury. Could almost drink with something meaty! Long and very refreshing. Not really particularly obviously sweet. Very smart indeed.