Meursault Charmes, Domaine des Comtes Lafon 2011

Here the pattern is reversed as the nose is less ripe; indeed here it is cool, restrained and positively backwards with its pure aromas of hazelnut, citrus, acacia blossom and extract of pear and white peach. There is terrific underlying tension and plenty of minerality to the medium-bodied flavors that possess almost painful intensity on the explosively persistent finish. This is first-rate though patience will be required.