Chardonnay DuMol Estate 2011

The 2011 Chardonnay DuMol Estate may be the best of all these 2011s. Made from their holdings in the cool climate Green Valley of the Russian River, this 475-case cuvee is made from the Mt. Eden, Old Wente and the Hyde clones of Chardonnay. Sixty-five percent new oak is used, and the wine spends 15 months on its lees with no batonnage. A spectacular effort, it reveals notes of unbuttered popcorn, caramelzied citrus, white peach, honeysuckle and a wet gravel-like minerality. This full-bodied, intense Chardonnay is one of the few superstars of this vintage. It should drink well for 4-5 years.

Since its founding in 1996, DuMol has been one of the superstar wineries of the entire California North Coast. They primarily focus on gorgeous Burgundian-styled Chardonnays from cool micro-climates as well as Pinot Noirs, with the added attraction of one Viognier and one or two Syrahs. They have been consistent from the beginning with winemaker Andy Smith, who has a brilliant record not only at DuMol, but at several other estates where he is the full-time winemaker, particularly the Napa Valley estate of Larkmead, just north of St. Helena. All five 2011 Chardonnays I tasted merit serious attention from consumers. Forget the difficulties of this vintage as DuMol came through with flying colors. All of the 2011 Pinot Noirs were harvested before the heavy rains fell in October, except for the Cuvee Ian, which was completely declassified. The three vintages of Syrah Eddie's Patch I tasted come from a vineyard called Hoppe-Kelly, which is planted in red soils southeast of Healdsburg, near Chalk Hill.