Criots Bâtard Montrachet, Domaine Fontaine Gagnard 2012

The 2012 Criots-Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru comes from the family’s one-third hectare holding planted between the 1930s and 1990s. It was picked the same day as the premier crus and Celine told me that it always has a slightly higher degree of alcohol. It has an entrancing bouquet with perfumed apricot, peach and dried citrus peel notes infused with minerals – feminine and seductive. The palate is medium-bodied with a rounded, powerful, spicy opening. It is very well balanced, very concentrated on the finish. This is compelling like so many from this under-rated grand cru vineyard, though there are just four barrels instead of the usual eight in this year.

**Note: from 3 separate parcels that aggregate .33 ha**
Notes of pain grillé combine with mildly exotic aromas that are not dissimilar from those of the Caillerets though here there is a distinct petrol element as well. Despite the elevated ripeness displayed by the nose the palate impression of the attractively textured and concentrated flavors is quite cool and reserved, all wrapped in a complex, long and balanced finish that also exhibits a touch of sweetness.