CDP Croix de Bois, Maison M. Chapoutier 2015

At the top end of Chapoutier's Southern Rhône hierarchy are the two sélections parcellaires from Châteauneuf du Pape. I had a slight preference for the 2015 Chateauneuf du Pape Croix de Bois, which comes from the Bédarrides (eastern) side of the appellation, a site with galets roulés over clay, which Chapoutier says resists drought. This is a full-bodied, dense, plummy wine, but it retains ample freshness and offers loads of spicy complexity, including exotic notes like cumin and coriander that linger enticingly on the finish.

The 2015 Châteauneuf-Du-Pape Croix de Bois is another single vineyard cuvée made from 100% Grenache that was completely destemmed and aged all in concrete. It's slightly deeper ruby colored than Barbe Rac and offers a more fruit-driven style. Blueberry, plums, black cherries, spring flowers and Asian spice. Building with time in the glass, ripe, voluptuous and elegant, yet also concentrated and structured, it needs 2-4 years of bottle age.