Jacquesson Cuvee 738 Degorgement Tardif Non Vintage

The latest in the Chiques family's very successful initiative of numbered NV cuvées, this is based on 2010 with one-third reserve wine in the blend. The nose has plenty of bright chardonnay fruits, lime and lemon, green melon notes and a little spicy edge, plus plenty of stony, chalky notes too. The palate's nicely paced, delivering the same swathe of citrus on arrival, building to more savory, nutty characters as it goes. Lemon and lime sherbet flavors; acidity is crunchy and energetic. Drink now or over the next five years, longer if you like more of the toasty stuff.

Very sophisticated. Already a bit of wild-flower notes here. Racy and lacy.