Kirchenstuck Grosses Gewachs, Von Buhl 2015

It’s surprising how an extra year seems to have already resulted in some waxy and fumy notes one would associate with Riesling of a certain age. On the palate, the Kirchenstück reflects the generosity of the 2015 vintage with a full body, supple texture and an almost sweet expression not much bothered by acidity. There is ripe fruit, but it’s not a fruit-driven wine.

This has started to close down and only hints at more than exhibits ample notes of quince, almond cream, canned peach and candied grapefruit. Grapefruit-driven acidity makes the wine start off on the light side on the palate. It is only gradually that it develops more power, presence and ripe yellow fruits. These lead to a very long and intense finish with great grip and intensity as well as quite some tartness still in need of integration. A nice zesty side comes through in the after-taste. This really needs to be left alone for many years now in order to develop its full aromatic balance. It could then well turn out better than expected if it gains in focus. 2022-2030

A bright gold in colour, this has a heady, complex perfume of dried flowers, lime, struck flint and just a hint of petrol. The palate has a saline, oyster-shell edge that makes for a moreish and savoury palate style. Thyme, preserved lemons and juicy limes all come through, with rich and creamy texture adding real weight and length. Light spices build to the lip-smacking savoury tones that make this incredibly moreish. With time and air, this opens up even more, with sweet and exotic spices coming through. The acidity keeps all this exuberance in check, and adds to the potential for ageing for this wine. Quite stunning, dry, rich Riesling that sits with the very best in its category from anywhere in the world.