Barolo Riserva Vürsù Campè, La Spinetta 2007

I tasted some beautiful Barbarescos before this sample, but the power and the vigor of the Barolo appellation comes through with undeniable clarity here. The 2007 Barolo Riserva Campè Vürsù (Magnum) is a wine of muscle, brawn and fortitude. It shows more textural tightness and density than the Barbarescos of the same vintage (also in magnum) that are softer and more streamlined in comparison. This gorgeous bottle opens to dark fruit, black currant, spice, cola and earthy truffle. Ultimately, this wine's most memorable quality is the velvety, tightly-knit nature of its mouthfeel.