Chassagne Montrachet Chenevottes, Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey 2016

A ripe yet admirably fresh nose is comprised mostly by liqueur-like aromas of apple, pear and citrus. The racy and intense medium weight flavors are more delineated than is typical for Chenevottes, all wrapped in a very dry and clean finale. This is pretty but it's a bit one-dimensional today and will need at least a few years to better develop additional depth. Drink: 2023+

There's only one barrel of the 2016 Chassagne Montrachet 1er Cru Les Chenevottes, but it's one of the highlights of the range this year, unfurling in the glass with complex aromas of lemon and lime zest, pastry cream, iodine and smoky reduction. On the palate, it's medium-bodied, deep and complete, with a beautifully satiny texture and superb balance. It's not a powerful Chenevottes, but it's supremely elegant.