Region | |
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Subregion | Germany > Mosel |
Colour | White |
Type | Still |
View all vintages of this wine | View all wines by Van Volxem
The Van Volxem 2011 Scharzhofberger Riesling P(ergentsknopp) – whose name I inscribe that way because the old vineyard name Pergentsknopp has been snuck onto the small-print label even though the more prominent one displays only a capital “P” allusion to its specific site of origin – leads with at once cooling and pungent scents of wintergreen, mint and cress along with allusions to the apple, white peach and yellow plum that then sappily inform a satiny palate. Wet stone, pungent struck flint and piquant fruit pit add interesting counterpoint to a sustained and infectiously juicy finish. Here is another instance – one of the most striking at this address – of a polished, almost creamy and subtly glycerol-slicked as well as substantial wine that nonetheless preserves admirable clarity and refreshment. Look for it to reward return visits through the end of this decade.